Friday, September 23, 2011

Montreal.Fashion.Week.Spring.Summer.2012: Day.4

Day 4, final day of Montreal Fashion Week (MFW), was a revelation for me. Unfortunately, I had to wait until the last day of Montreal.Fashion.Week to finally be wowed by a show. Lets see who and why.

I attended 2 shows: Nu.I by Vickie and Iris Setlakwe.


-Nu.I by Vickie


(pictures courtesy: Jimmy Hamelin)

Again, I didn't know what to expect from this show as last season's presentation at fashion week was a bit all over the place I must admit. With a new approach & concept established with the help of a clear and clever artistic direction from Montreal fashion blogger Candice from
MontrealInFashion, the show was a great tale of beautiful and modern ethnicity. The show was staged in the lounge area instead of the traditional catwalk which allowed the clothes to shine through. Tribal & wild animal patterns were mixed with leather fringing at hems of skirts, shorts, dresses and long capes. Designer Vickie Joseph experimented with different types of design elements; volume and shape, mixing many patterns, colors and fabrics, interesting details like the fringes, keyholes on shoulders, sleeves and knees, and the over-sized and pop-colored jewelery which all seem to tie in and work well together in creating a world of wild yet very contemporary dressing. My favorite piece from a great collection was without a doubt the stunning tribal print dress with an asymmetrical front collar opening and leather fringing. And, finally, we got a show with someone who understood that it wasn't necessary to send out 45 looks to get a message across! Amazingly surprised, this show was by far my favorite of MFW21. A real revelation.

-Iris Setlakwe

(pictures courtesy: Jimmy Hamelin)

A newcomer to MFW, I was discovering Iris Setlakwe's work for the very first time. Fluidity, movement and the many different array of colors are essentially the elements of Setlakwe's Spring.2012 collection. I loved the run through the safari segment with the lovely and rich looking caramel leather. However, the show needed some good chopping and editing as it was a bit too long, and had too many segments which felt like I was going through an entire lookbook. However, I must say, it is hard to follow a show that had a clear message & that blew away everyone who was in attendance. A clearer vision and theme will showcase better the talent & good pieces of this collection.

Stay tuned for my final entry on MFW21 coming up shortly reviewing the whole week.

-The.Shoe.Freak

Wednesday, September 21, 2011

Montreal.Fashion.Week.Spring.Summer.2012: Day.3

Four shows, back to back, is exhausting! All the waiting around, the standing up, the suffocating closeness and the line-ups aren't very glamorous to say the least. This really sums up my Day 3 experience (you can read more on this subject in the article I wrote for YourKloset.com here). I saw some really good stuff but was not blown away as I must admit, saw some so-so stuff as well.

I attended 4 shows: Duy, Samuel Dong, CIMM collective and Second Clothing. Check out my reviews below.

-Duy

(pictures courtesy: Jimmy Hamelin)

I didn't really know what to expect from Duy as it was his first official Montreal Fashion Week-associated outing (although he's been around for very long). His first look, a gorgeous lace dress with a bouquet of white flowers, as the top, was very promising. I must say, speaking in terms of pieces alone, one by one, most of them were stunning, very interesting and the workmanship and level of detailing was tremendous, but (yes there is a small but), the show needed a bit of editing as it lacked of coherence in the message. Some of his pieces were over-conceptualized...just too many different things going on at the front and the back of a white tailored jacket for instance. However, they did make for great editorial looking pieces. But, Duy can cut a dress, a skirt, a blazer like no one else. Also, his combination of textures was great and looked oh so luxurious. His play with sensual ruffles, lines, volume and asymmetry was gorgeous. With some editing, he has the potential for greatness which is bound to happen!

-Samuel Dong

(pictures courtesy: Jimmy Hamelin)

Another designer I was eager to watch was Samuel Dong's presentation as his show was another of my favorite from Fall.2011 Montreal Fashion Week. He continued with his very ladylike look established in the previous season, but had much less styling and much more prints than what I remembered him doing last season. For Spring.2012, it is all about Prints for Samuel Dong, in all variety of shapes, colors & fabrics and on every silhouette! Wild colorful prints, soft prints, and everything in the middle. There were lots of ruffles, movement, flow, brocade and asymmetrical detailing, which are all Samuel Dong signatures. The evening gowns were superb in their workmanship, especially the finale dress, with rosettes of flowers on a pink full ball gown. The great thing about his creations is that he fully understands his customer's needs and delivers in that aspect. Why change something that works right? However, I must say I wasn't as blown away as the previous season, and left somewhat wanting more from this show. The music, the (weak) styling and the exuberance of prints left me somewhat puzzled.

-CIMM Collective (Zenobia Bawa, Ronen Chen, Simon Chang)

(Zenobia.Bawa, Ronen.Chen, Simon Chang)
(pictures courtesy: Jimmy Hamelin)


Zenobia Bawa: A collection full of transparency (huge MFW21 trend) and draping on long evening dresses. Volumes were lightly explored but could have been more touched upon. Specific to a targeted clientele.

Ronen Chen: I was eager to see Chen's show as a few weeks prior, I had visited his London, UK boutique and found myself interested by most of his pieces. Some of the pieces on the Montreal catwalk I had seen at his boutique already, which was weirdly intriguing. Sheer tops and architectural structured lines were evident in his Montreal presentation. However, I found the styling and the pieces presented a bit all over the place, with no real intention but to show clothes from his boutique. This became more evident when reactions, gasps and murmurs came from the crowd (sitting in my row at least) upon realizing that tags were kept on and visible to the naked eye, especially on sheer tops! Somewhat disappointing.

Simon Chang: Always the crowd pleaser, mr.Chang was as energetic and happy as his collection was. Lady Gaga's Born this way blasted through our ears (really was way too loud) as the prints festival continued (seems like it was the trend of the day). Simon Chang used prints galore on shirts, dresses, blazers, skirts, multi-colouful crochets, peasant-prairie like blouses and dresses etc. Animal prints of all kind; psychedelic prints, flowers, cities, tribal, name it, you probably had it. There were some great pieces like the sequined paneled trench coat, as well as a clear white crochet cardigan over a great tribal print dress. But the styling was a bit over the top (including the make-up), which didn't allow us to fully grasp some of the beautiful pieces that were sent down. It would have benefited from a "less is sometimes more" approach but still, mr.Chang's many clients and followers in the crowd seemed to enjoy the show as he was enthusiastically cheered on when he took his finale bow down the runway.

-Second Clothing

(pictures courtesy: Jimmy Hamelin)

Always a favorite for their great jeans and streetwear clothing that is young and fresh, Second Clothing did not disappoint the fashionable crowd in attendance with their Spring.2012 outing. Many pieces were favorites of the many fashionista's sitting next to me. And judging by the constant twitter feed of ouh's and awe's, the same could be said about the pastel colored flared and skinny jeans as well as the movement of the water-like printed flowered dresses that walked down the runway. The pastel color palette consisting of light yellow, salmon & pistachio was delightful. The chambray fabric, although excessively used, was light as air, especially on the beautiful dresses that flew like the wind (which was the theme of the night & the week by the way) and the great flared pants with pleating at the waist. Besides a good cut & editing job needed (as there were too many looks going down which felt like I had witnessed their entire catalog), it was easy casual street wear at its best with very good pieces (especially the jeans).

Day 4 reviews, final day of Fashion week, coming up...Stay tuned!

-The.Shoe.Freak

Tuesday, September 13, 2011

Montreal.Fashion.Week.Spring.Summer.2012: Day.2

Day 2 of Montreal Fashion Week (MFW) was a pretty slow day for me. On the agenda for myself, one show only, the collective Label Europe show directed and styled by talented Montreal stylist Mélanie Brisson. The show, an ensemble of European designers, showcased the talents of creators abroad.

Designers included Katharina Kruppe, Rhum Raisins by Victoire Vermeulen, Les Chat Perchés, Finnegan-Bell and my personal favorite from the group, 85-86.
Besides the traditional ladies and menswear, jewelery (Eugene Bijoux) and handbags CeliaCzerlinski) were also presented with a very effective and well directed vision from Mélanie Brisson.

(pictures courtesy: Jimmy Hamelin)

My favorite piece of the night was 85/86's gorgeous tan coat with leather pieces used at the back flap and pockets. The structured of the coat and the colour, a very rich tan with a tonal caramel, was perfectly cut. (sorry, no pictures available)

For more information on Mélanie Brisson's bright & impressive array of work, click here.

Stay tuned for more instant MFW21 news & updates as Day 3 was my busiest day of the week as I attended 4 shows! (Duy, Samuel Dong, a collective including Simon Chang, and Second Clothing)

-The.Shoe.Freak

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Montreal.Fashion.Week.Spring.Summer.2012: Day.1

The fashion world gathered at Marché Bonsecours yesterday night for the first day of Montreal Fashion Week (MFW) showcasing the Spring.Summer.2012 collections of our talented pool of designers. Fashionistas, hipsters, fellow fashion bloggers and media mavens were dressed to impress, with outfits prepared weeks in advance.

I enjoy the people watching a lot at MFW as it is always inspiring to see outfits put together and personal styles showcased to the smallest of details. Montreal's got style, that is for sure.

Last MFW, I blogged about the whole experience of attending a full scheduled fashion week and mostly shared my impressions of the whole experience. However, now that I am not a rookie anymore, when it comes to attending fashion weeks as a fashion blogger, the thrill of the whole experience has subsided. Therefore, I will mostly talk about the shows I went to see, which is the purpose of attending a fashion week in the first place; to talk about the fashion witnessed!

I attended 3 shows: Travis Taddeo, Melissa Nepton and Dimitri Chris.

-Travis Taddeo

(Travis.Taddeo.Spring.Summer.2012)

The party was set & the party gals and guys were ready to rock out with their acid washed jeans & shorts, feathered or sheered tops &dresses, and sparkly platforms. There was experimentation with dimension (ample and loose versus tight and body conscious) as well as dresses with cutouts at the side panels or the back. Stripes were also big for Taddeo's Spring offerings. All in all, it was a fun party-like collection which will sure interest the club kids and hipsters. Big props for casting the gorgeous Azamit!

-Melissa Nepton

(Melissa.Nepton.Spring.Summer.2012)

I was really looking forward to this collection as you might remember, Nepton's show was my favorite of Fall.2011 Montreal fashion week. I was waiting to see what she would deliver as a second act and delivered, she did again. The constant feeling I get watching a Melissa Nepton show is the coherence of the collection. Although some styling details for Spring.2012 were a bit confusing & made me wonder why they were included in the first place (holed knee socks?), the show itself was a delightful play of volume and juxtaposition of fabrics. Inspired by the wind, Nepton's collection was a showcase of movement and flow. Centered around a neutral palette of beige and blacks with pop of colours like coral and whites, with a very soothing mix of fabrics including lace, see-through sheer and linens that moved with the bodies of the models. Very strong showing again by a talented Nepton.

-
Dimitri Chris

(Dimitri.Chris.Spring.Summer.2012)

Dimitri Chris took us on a ride with his Cruise inspired collection. Shocker, the first model to walk out was wearing a short white bustier shirt-dress...Yes, Dimitri Chris is entering the womenswear world as he showcased 6 or 7 looks that ladies would surely love to wear (high-wasted cropped pants with a basic tee that was very cruise indeed, or jumpers featuring a nautical print, which was used in menswear as well). But ultimately, Chris is known for his sharp men tailoring and he did not disappoint his already sold crowd with lots of shorts, tees, tanks and of course, nice suits and tailoring that were very inspired by a nautical trip or cruise around the fashion sea!

Good start to the week...

Stay tuned for Day 2.

-The.Shoe.Freak

(photos courtesy of Rouge-Photo)

Monday, September 5, 2011

Montreal.Fashion.Week.Spring.2012

Montreal Fashion Week #21: Spring.Summer.2011


Here we go again, the fashion jungle is meeting up for a jammed 4 days to present the new ideas, trends & design for the Spring.Summer.2012 season. Felt like it was just yesterday that I covered the 20th edition of Montreal Fashion Week. How time flies!

I will not be attending all the shows this season as I have selected a few that I particularly wanted to see. Others, which I also wanted to see but wont be able to attend due to scheduling conflict, will be followed closely through tweets, pictures, articles and blog entries from the full-on coverage Montreal Fashion Week gets locally from our great fashion bloggers, media's and so forth.

Looking forward to seeing the great fashion on the catwalk as well as from the many attendees. As you know, the fashion crowds prepare their outfits (yes, because there are many different one involved) weeks in advance! Fashionista's and Fashionisto's can go wild with their outfits and will probably be praised for it. It's all in good fun & is part of the whole experience.

Hope you will follow me all throughout this week of tweets, pictures and post on all that is fashion in Montreal. This season, I will be collaborating with photographer Rouge-Photo as he will be joining me throughout the week in sharing the vibe and pulse of Montreal Fashion Week by taking pictures of everything interesting and noteworthy to me. I have previously spoken about his work in my blog. Check it out here.

It begins on Tuesday...stay tuned.

-The.Shoe.Freak

For more information on Montreal's fashion week, designer bios, schedules & venues, events, & much more, go to their website at http://montrealfashionweek.ca

Monday, August 22, 2011

Traveling.For.Fashion

The perks of working in the fashion industry is without a doubt the traveling one must do around the world. As a designer, it is important to stay inspired and focused. Traveling allows all of that as it provides great discoveries, as well as enriches the mind with different ways of life, cultures and so forth. This, therefore, keeps the creative side flowing and nurtured.

This week, I will be traveling for work, again. My destination: Europe & more precisely, London and Paris. This trip will definitely help in my creative process for my work. But also, it will give me many things to blog about when I get be back. I am quite sure I will back with tons of new ideas and inspired to the fullest.

Until then, I leave you guys with some pictures of what is synonymous of fashion for both London and Paris.

-London:

(Luxury.Department.Stores: Selfridges.&.Harrods)

(Designers: Burberry.&.Stella.McCartney)

-Paris:

(Luxury.Department.Stores: Galeries.Lafayette.&.Au.Printemps)

(Designers: Christian.Dior.&.Chanel)

P.S: Excuse me for the lack of post while I am away. No worries though, I will be back with plenty to share with you all.

-The.Shoe.Freak

Friday, August 19, 2011

Men.Fashion.Trend: Skirts

My latest article for Your Kloset talks about an emerging trend in Men fashion; the skirt. After the overwhelming response to my article (which you can read here), I decided to further discuss this trend on my blog.

Yes, skirts have made their seldom appearance in prior seasons (mostly kilt-looking & inspired), but nothing like Spring 2012 where some collections presented had as many skirt options as pants, and in some cases, full-on skirt collections. As mentioned in my article, skirts have always been predominantly a womenswear staple, however trendsetting designers are
pushing forward the notion of a masculine man wearing them, pushing the boundaries by playing with length and fit. And the variation in detailing & silhouettes was astonishingly different and fresh for Spring 2012.

Rick Owens, for instance, showed a floor length, figure-hugging dress-like skirt
in an almost skirt-only collection, while others like Riccardo Tisci's Givenchy collection as well as Thom Browne showed above the knee, wide width, almost kilt-like versions, playing with patterns and textures. Volume, flow and movement, terms usually employed in women's fashion, were predominant at Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake.

(Patterns.at.Thom.Browne/Givenchy/Yohji.Yamamoto)

(Long.Ankle.Length.at.Rick.Owens/Yohji.Yamamoto/Damir.Doma)

(Knee.Length.at.Givenchy/Comme.des.Garcons/Givenchy)

In all honesty, even I am having a hard time keeping a straight face on while trying to describe the different design components and their variations designers used as this trend is only at a beginning stage of what fashion normally calls a trend. Again, we have seen the skirt in menswear before, but nothing like the onslaught for Spring 2012, hence calling it a "trend". I am quite sure that it will still take a bit of time for the world to embrace terms like a-line, pencil, pleated or flared skirts when describing updates and changes to the men skirt, if the trend takes on of course!


All kidding aside, do you think the men skirt is here to stay or is it just a one season figment of a (many) designer's imagination? I would really love to hear your opinions, comments and feedback on this subject.

But for now, Men, you better start shaving those legs! ;)


-The.Shoe.Freak

(source: Gq.com/Style.com)